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Riding the Shining Sea Bikeway

Rail trails offer a great opportunity to walk, skate or ride without dealing with the resentful glare of automobile drivers who believe they own the road while controlling your life in their distracted hands. The Shining Sea Bikeway ups the ante with beautiful views and a diverse landscape. The trick on this trail is to…

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Keeping Watch in the Cape Cod Fog

Cape Cod is a summer playground, we all know that. But what of winter and early spring? These “off” seasons are often described by well-meaning seasonal snobs as desolate and depressing. I’d argue for the stark beauty of isolation, and seek it out whenever possible. The Cape isn’t desolate off-season; it’s dormant. If you listen…

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A Visit to First Encounter Beach

If Provincetown claims the first landing of the Pilgrims in North America, and Plymouth claims the place they settled, Eastham is the place where they first encountered the Native American population. And like the thousands of encounters between settlers and natives to follow, it wasn’t hugs and kisses. Today there’s a popular beach with a…

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A Walk on Cahoon Hollow Beach

“The sea-shore is a sort of neutral ground, a most advantageous point from which to contemplate this world. It is even a trivial place. The waves forever rolling to the land are too far-travelled and untamable to be familiar. Creeping along the endless beach amid the sun-squall and the foam, it occurs to us that…

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The Heart of the Bay

Nobody owns the sky or the trees.Nobody owns the hearts of birds.Still, being human and partial therefore to my own successes—though not resentful of others fashioning theirs— I’ll come tomorrow, I believe, quite early.– Mary Oliver, Winter and the Nuthatch Oliver writes of building trust with a nuthatch that eventually learns to eat out of…